HOW TO MAKE A GREAT PICTURE? like a professional photographer . . .

many people ask how to get a great picture like as professional photographer? how the technique?
in addition to mastery of the instrument, in the world of photography there are many techniques to get a great picture.and this become a handbook for professional photographers around the world.
there are :
1.Take advantage of color, shape, or line of light so that images look strong and absorbing

2.keep simple, the simpler arrangement of your photos posed the stronger impression

3.use the rule of the third, putting the main attraction at the intersection of imaginary lines, do not place the main object in the middle, it is death center

4.Do not use a background that is too crowded, because it would interfere with the main object

5.identify recurring patterns around
6.find a symmetrical pattern around

7.do not place the horizon line right in the middle photo, try on a third horizon up or down, find which one is more interesting, the upper third or lower third

8.use a variation of Angle of View, to get the best angle
9.use the foreground to give the impression of depth in the picture

10.try to take pictures at 5 pm to 8 am, and from 4 pm to 7 pm, especially if you are a landscape photographer, This is the best time to take pictures

11. make your pictures tell a story, looking for focal points and points of interest from the photograph, something that would strengthen the story in pictures

12.do not be greedy! take pictures as necessary so the meaning of images can be delivered, the crop if there is a disturbing objects in photos

good luck (^^)

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Much of what I mention will be from a SLR point of view, but can be applicable to most camera systems where you have a good degree of manual control. These suggestions are by no means comprehensive...just a few thing to get the beginner thinking.

1.  Always take a tripod (a good tripod). Yes, even on a bright, sunny day. Many times you'll want to use a very small aperture (big f number) to achieve great depth of field. Even on a relatively bright day, your shutter speed may not be fast enough at small apertures to be able to hand hold your shot. Secondly, on a day with tough lighting conditions, you may want to bracket exposure your shot. If you use a very steady tripod, you can use the timer function (or better yet, a cable release) and take 3 exposure shots, and the image won't move even a pixel. This will allow you to later combine the images and vary the opacity at different regions to achieve the "perfect" exposure to the scene. Third, I find that the tripod really makes me a better composer. I take the time to make sure the horizon is straight, the subject is well placed, avoid distracting objects, etc. Oh yes, make sure your tripod is steady. There's no worse feeling than being in front of that perfect scene with your camera on the tripod and noticing that your system is shaking a little bit because of the windy conditions.

2.  Carry a cable release. The timer function on the camera is no substitute for a cable release, BTW. The cable allows you the release the shutter when YOU want to release the shutter, not 2 sec or 10 sec or 15 sec from when you want to release. The release makes it so you don't have to touch the camera at all which will definitely minimize camera shake...especially important for those longer exposure shots. As an aside, if your camera allows it, use the mirror lock up function.

3.   Polarizer, neutral density filters, and graduated neutral density filters. The key to landscape photography is control of light. A polarizer will help take glare off the water and other reflective surfaces like leaves. It also gives some contrast to an otherwise flat, hazy day. A side effect (if you consider it a side effect) is the affect on the sky...will make it a darker shade of blue or even black at higher elevations. Neutral density filters will evenly stop a specified amount of light from hitting your sensor. Let's say you want to get that nice silky effect on a water fall but the day is sunny. If you just shot the image without a ND filter, you might not be able to slow down your shutter speed enough without blowing out the highlights. No problem, ND to the rescue! Grad ND filter is invaluable to the sunrise or sunset shooter. During these "golden hours", the sky is well light but the foreground (e.g., land or water) is not. The grad ND filter is dark on top and clear on bottom and there is a "gradual" transition from the dark to the clear area. Again, these filters come in different strengths. By placing the grad ND filter in front of your lens you decrease the amount of light reaching the sensor from the bright part of the scene (the sky), thereby allowing nice detail from the foreground to show through without blowing out the highlights. There are 2 types of grad ND filters, hard and soft. Hard has an abrupt transition from dark to clear and the soft has a more gentle transition. The hard would be used if you have a very flat horizon, for example like at the Grand Canyon. For an uneven horizon, the soft transition will do nicely. A word of cautions...don't get the screw on type of grad ND filters, as they invariably place the transition right at the center of the lens, exactly where you don't want it. If you're a beginner, I suggest getting a 3 stop hard and a 2 stop soft grad ND filter. All other filters are optional and I'm sure you'll experiment with them once you get these down.

4.  Use a hyperfocal distance chart. Hyperfocal distance is the distance from the end of your lens you should focus at to get the maximum depth of field and still have infinity in focus (for a given f stop and focal distance combination). There are many charts and calculator available on the web. I've made an excel spreadsheet for myself. I always carry this sheet with me in my camera bag.

5.  Know the weather conditions before going. Unless you own a sealed camera like the Nikon F5/D1 or Canon 1D/1V series, you'll want to protect your equipment from rain (perhaps a simple thing like a plastic bag and an umbrella).

6.  Landscape = wide-angle lens. Personal preference, but many will agree with this statement.

7.  Remember the 3 elements of a good landscape: foreground, midground, and background. Try to have something in these positions. This is just a rule of thumb...and you know what they say about rules...

8.  If possible, try to avoid shooting in the mid-day... lots of harsh light and unflattering shadows around that time.

9.  If you have a histogram function on your digital camera, use it! The LCD often gives inaccurate representation of the exposures. I rely on my histogram, not the little image of the scene I just shot to tell me my proper exposure. As a rule of thumb in digital, shoot for the highlights (as opposed to for the shadows, suggested for film). I'd rather have a slightly underexposed shot than an overexposed one in digital. Underexposed shots are much more easily corrected than an overexposed one.

10.  Some people will use a digital camera first to see what kind of metering is needed to get the proper exposure, because there is instant feed back. Then they will set up their film camera with the same settings. Nifty idea, I think. 


resource: http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo62.php3

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Canon EOS 600D is the latest series from the ranks to replace EOS EOS 550D, where of course there is improvement from the previous series. Although the improvement is not very significant, like the swivel LCD on the Canon EOS 550d which there are no additional feature-feature software like Intelligent Auto, Creative Filter, and the ability to control the Off-Shoe Flash. Not a lot of advantages brought by the series to replace its predecessor the EOS 600D is. For the size of the EOS 600D LCD which has a size of 3 inches is certainly very convenient for users, to the LCD viewfinder / live viewfinder has had an optical viewfinder that has an accuracy of 100% frame coverage than the LCD viewfinder which only has 99% frame coverage. That is, if using the LCD viewfinder, then there is a small area that will be lost / not captured by the LCD when you preview before the shoot objectnya, so the images will appear slightly wider than an early preview on the LCD. In addition Canon EOS 600D also has the ability to record HD video at full size with a maximum resolution of 1920 x 1080 (1080p), 30fps minimum course size is a necessity if we want the video recordings to be smooth uninterrupted in fast motion. If you want a video recording that is faster than 30fps, the EOS 600D also has a choice of up to 60fps, but at a smaller resolution, ie 1280 x 720 (720p). This course will provide a new experience for its users. For the processor that is in use, Canon EOS 600D has been using the processor Digic 4 image processor, which is a great processor type of canon in processing the results of our capture. Other capabilities of this processor is a fast auto focus on the objects to be in the photo, but it's also a great noise reduction capabilities so that camera CANON EOS 600D is able to be used up to a maximum ISO 6400 with noise is still acceptable. CANON EOS 600D battery on this use of LP-E8, for the use of standards can be said is good enough, because enough to shoot over 400. However, this ability will decrease if the frequent use of the LCD to the viewfinder or just for reviewing the results of the our capture. 

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prosumer..pilihan terbaik bagi yang ingin belajar photography ataupun para professional photography

Kamera prosumer adalah gabungan/ persilangan antara kamera DSLR(biasa disebut kamera "PRO/PROfessional") dengan

kamera pocket(yang biasa juga disebut kamera "konSUMER"). DImana seperti kita ketahui pada kamera DSLR kita sebagai

pengguna diberi keleluasaan dalam mengatur exposure dan lain-lain, sedangkan pada kamera pocket, yang notabene serba

otomatis kita tidak diberi keleluasaan dalam pengaturan tersebut, karena semua pengaturan telah di atur otomatis

oleh kamera. Jadi dengan kamera prosumer kita diberi keleluasaan dalam pengaturan manual namun tetap dengan harga

terjangkau seperti kamera pocket. Hal ini tentunya sangat menguntungkan bagi mereka yang ingin belajar atau

menddalami fotografi secara serius tapi dengan dana yang minim ( karena seperti kita ketahui saat ini harga kamera

PRO/DSLR masih terlalu mahal apalagi jika bagi mereka yang masih dalam tahap belajar tapi membutuhkan kamera yang

berkualitas....). Bandingkan saja sekarang dengan harga DSLR kelas entry level yang paling murah masih berkisar antara 4jtaan,

sedangkan kamera prosumer kita sudah bisa mendapatkan dengan harga mulai 2 jutaan.

Selain masalah harga yang disebutkan di atas ada beberapa pertimbangan yang mungkin wajib kita fikirkan kenapa kita

harus memlih prosumer, yaitu :
 1. Rentang Lensa
    - Tidsak perlu repot untuk mencari lensa, terutama bagi mereka yang hobi foto candid ato tele, karena

rentang lensa pada kamera prosumer rata2 telah mencapai lebih dari 300mm. (andingkan pada kamera DSLR jika kita

membeli dengan lensa kit biasanya kita hanya mendapatkan lensa ukuran 18-55mm.
 2. Kualitas gambar
     - Kualitas pada kamera prosumer lebih dari cukup dan bahkan pada beberapa prosumer kualitasnya telah

mendekati kamera DSLR. Inilah mengapa terkadang para professional photographer masih menggunakan kamera prosumer

sebagai cadangan/pengiring kamera DSLR mereka.
 3. Bobot dan Dimensi kamera
    - Dimensi kamera prosumer walau notabene hampir mirip dengan DSLR untuk bodynya, namun dimensi kamera ini

lebih kecil dan tentunya lebih ringan..hampir sama dengan kamera pocket, tapi bodynya tentu saja lebih bagus karena

mirip DSLR.
 4. Tidak ada batasan "SHUTTER COUNT"
    -perlu diketahui, pada kamera DSLR terdapat batasan shutter count( berapa kali kita menjepret.. ), dimana

kita tentu perlu mengganti shutter count jika sudah mencapai batasan tersebut, dengan kata lain kamera DSLR/PRO

mempunyai umur pemakaian shutternya. Sedangkan pada kamera prosumer tidak ada batasan shutter countnya, inilah yang

paling menguntungkan bagi mereka yang yang masih dalam tahap belajar fotografi yang notabene perlu banyak latihan

untuk mengambil foto dimana hal itu tentu memakan shutter count yang tidak sedikit.

    Inilah kenapa prosumer menjadi sebuah pilihab yang bijak bagi mereka yang ingin bergelut di dunia fotografi.
untuk beberapa contoh kamera prosumer bisa dilihat di bawah ini :



Canon Powershot SX1 : urusan foto dan video sama baiknya

Casio Exilim FH20 : lebih cepat dari DSLR tercepat

Fuji FinePix S1500 : sederhana, murah namun lengkap

Kodak Z1015IS : unggul di lensa Schneider dan HD movie

Lumix FZ28 : tetap bertahan memakai lensa 18x zoom

Nikon Coolpix P90 : makin ambisius dengan 24x zoom

Pentax X70 : super zoom pertama dari Pentax

Sony Cybershot DSC-HX1 : semakin mendekati kamera DSLR

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best camera dslr price list 2011 for photograpyCANON
Canon EOS 60D BO                                               IDR   8.200.000
Canon EOS 60D Kit EF-S 18-135mm                     IDR 11.100.000
Canon EOS 60D Kit EF-S 18-200mm                     IDR 12.600.000
Canon EOS 60D Kit EF-S 18-55mmIS                   IDR  9.150.000
Canon EOS 1D mark IV                                          IDR 38.950.000
Canon EOS 500D/KISS X3 BO                              IDR  5.200.000
Canon EOS 500D/KISS X3 Kit18-55IS                  IDR  5.800.000
Canon EOS 5DMark II BO                                     IDR 19.200.000
Canon EOS 5DMark II Kit 24-105 F4L IS             IDR 26.590.000
Canon EOS 7D BO                                                 IDR 12.410.000
Canon EOS 7D Kit 15-85 IS                                   IDR 17.750.000
Canon EOS 7D Kit 18-135 IS                                 IDR 14.750.000
Canon EOS 1000D (18-55 IS)                                IDR  4.300.000
Canon EOS 1000D W/KIT                                     IDR  6.100.000
(18-55 IS And 55-250 IS)

NIKON
NIKON D3100 + lens 18-55 non VR                     IDR 5,195,000
NIKON D3100 + lens 18-55 VR                           IDR 5,825,000
NIKON D5000 + lens 18-55mm                            IDR 5,175,000
NIKON D5000 + lens 18-55 VR                           IDR 5,825,000
NIKON D5100 + lens 18-55 VR                           IDR 7,145,000
NIKON D90 bo                                                     IDR 7,075,000
NIKON D90 + 18-105mm                                    IDR  9,425,000
NIKON D300s bo                                                 IDR 13,350,000
NIKON D700 bo                                                  IDR 20,570,000
NIKON D7000 bo                                                IDR 10,300,000
NIKON D7000 + 18-105mm VR                         IDR 13,425,000
NIKON D3s bo                                                    IDR 43,450,000

OLYMPUS
OLYMPUS E450 + 14-42mm+40-150mm+4g                     IDR 5,795,000
OLYMPUS E620 + 14-42mm+40-150mm+4g                     IDR 7,600,000
OLYMPUS EPL 1 + 14-42mm                                             IDR 5,495,000
OLYMPUS EPL 1 + 14-42mm + 40-150mm + Adapter       IDR 6,875,000
OLYMPUS EPL 2 + 14-42mm+8g extreme+Tas                  IDR 7,125,000
OLYMPUS EPL 2 + 14-42mm + 40-150mm + 8g extreme  IDR 8,475,000


PANASONIC
PANASONIC GF1 lens 20mm + 2g                                    IDR 7,120,000
PANASONIC GF1 Kit lens 14-45mm + 2g                        IDR 6,615,000

PENTAX
PENTAX KR + lensa 18-55mm + 4g                                  IDR 6,635,000
PENTAX KM + 18-55mm                                                 IDR 5,660,000

SAMSUNG
SAMSUNG NX 10 + 18-55mm                                         IDR5,950,000

SONY
SONY NEX-3 lens 16mm + 4g                                          IDR 5,185,000
SONY NEX-3 lens 18-55mm + 4g                                    IDR 5,585,000
SONY NEX-3 lens 16mm + 18-55mm + 4g                      IDR 6,410,000
SONY NEX-5 lens 16mm + 4g                                         IDR 6,085,000
SONY NEX-5 lens 18-55mm + 4g                                   IDR 6,460,000
SONY NEX-5 lens 16mm + 18-55mm + 4g                     IDR 7,465,000
SONY Alpha 390 + 18-55mm + 4g                                 IDR 5,295,000
SONY Alpha 390 + 18-55mm + 55-200mm+4g              IDR 7,245,000
SONY SLT A33 + 18-55mm +4g                                   IDR  7,345,000
SONY SLT A33 + 18-55mm + 55-200mm + 4g             IDR  9,425,000
SONY SLT A55 bo + 4g                                                IDR 7,875,000
SONY SLT A55 + lens 18-55mm + 4g                           IDR8,875,000
SONY SLT A55 + 18-55mm + 55-200mm + 4g            IDR10,975,000

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